In Praise of: Fairisle Knitwear

In Praise of: Fairisle Knitwear

The iconic knitting technique of Fairisle takes its name from the small, remote island of the same name, located in the Shetland Islands of Scotland. While its exact origins remain a bit of a mystery, the striking geometric patterns bear a close resemblance to the traditional knitwear of Iceland and Scandinavia—regions with historical trading connections to the Shetlands. Characterized by its intricate designs and vibrant hues, Fair Isle knitting is renowned for using no more than two colours per row, creating its signature, multi-layered motifs.

For centuries, crofters and fishermen in the Shetland Islands wore Fairisle knitwear for warmth and protection. It wasn’t until the 1920s, however, that the style gained widespread recognition. When the Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII)—a long-time Cordings customer—was gifted a Fair Isle vest by the islanders, and subsequently photographed wearing it while golfing, the look soared into mainstream British fashion. Since then, Fair Isle has become a staple of classic British style, worn by everyone from royalty to trendsetters.

The Autumn Winter 2024 Fair Isle Collection

Contrast Geelong Wool Fair Isle Jumper

For those who appreciate contrast in colour, the light blue and rust Geelong wool jumper offers a modern take on Fair Isle knitwear. Made from the same luxurious Geelong wool as its retro counterpart, this piece provides the ultimate softness and warmth. The light blue and rust colour palette offers a fresh, vibrant twist on the traditional Fair Isle patterns.

Geelong wool is a premium type of wool that comes from the first shearing of Merino sheep, specifically from young lambs in the Geelong region of Victoria, Australia. This wool is highly prized for its ultra-fine fibres, which are softer and more delicate than standard Merino wool. The fibres of Geelong wool typically measure between 16 and 17 microns in diameter, making it incredibly soft and lightweight, with a feel similar to cashmere.

Donegal Wool Fair Isle Jumper

The Donegal wool Fairisle Jumper, available in a navy blue as well as the cream pictured above, brings a more rugged, earthy feel to the collection. Donegal wool is steeped in history, traditionally spun in County Donegal, Ireland. Donegal wool is a distinctive type of wool known for its rugged texture and characteristic “flecks” of colour that are woven into the yarn. Originating from County Donegal in Ireland, this wool reflects the region’s traditional hand-spinning and dyeing methods.

The flecks of colour—often called “neps” or “slubs”—give Donegal wool its signature look, with the base yarn typically dyed in earthy tones, while the specks add pops of brighter colours, creating a tweed-like effect. It is famous for its rustic texture and its handcrafted look. This makes each piece slightly different, echoing the charm of artisanal craftsmanship.

Retro Geelong Wool Fairisle Jumper

Crafted from Geelong wool, this Retro Fairisle Jumper represents the classic signature look of the Fairisle Jumpers worn by sailors in a more effeminate style. Available in a vibrant red colour and an earthy green, these very popular jumpers offer unbeatable comfort. Geelong wool is an excellent choice for layering during colder months. Its lightweight feel, combined with superior warmth and durability, means you can enjoy stylish, high-performance knitwear that’s versatile enough for both casual and formal occasions.

How to Care for Fairisle Knitwear

Geelong Wool Care Guide:

Hand Washing: Geelong wool is delicate due to its fine fibres, so it’s best to hand wash your knitwear in cold water using a mild, wool-friendly detergent. Avoid hot water, as it can cause the wool to shrink. When washing, gently agitate the garment but avoid wringing, stretching, or rubbing the wool, as this can damage the fine fibres.

Rinsing: Rinse in cold water until all soap is removed. Again, avoid wringing the knitwear.

Drying: Lay the garment flat on a towel and roll it up to remove excess water. Reshape the knitwear carefully and leave it to air dry on a flat surface, away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Avoid hanging, as this can stretch the wool.

Storage: When storing Geelong wool knitwear, fold it neatly and keep it in a cool, dry place. Using breathable cotton bags or adding cedar wood blocks can help protect it from moths.

Donegal Wool Care Guide:

Hand Washing or Gentle Machine Wash: Donegal wool is more rugged than Geelong but still benefits from gentle care. Hand washing is ideal, but if you must use a washing machine, select a wool or delicate cycle using cold water and a wool-safe detergent.

Drying: After washing, gently press out excess water using a towel, then lay the garment flat to dry naturally. Avoid using a tumble dryer, as heat can shrink and damage the wool.

Storage: Store Donegal wool knitwear folded in a breathable container. Donegal wool is more robust, but it’s still a good idea to use moth repellents like lavender sachets or cedar wood.

With proper care, your Fair Isle knitwear will maintain its beauty, softness, and structure for many years to come.

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