Grey Fox x Cordings
David Evans AKA Grey Fox started writing about style for the older gentleman in 2011 and is a well-respected voice on how to dress well at any age.
His love of British style, sustainability and British manufacturing are key considerations when he chooses his wardrobe. We at Cordings have long been admirers of his style and the mutual appreciation between David and Cordings flowered into friendship, and a collaboration was the obvious next step.
It all started during a conversation between David and Justin our Design Director about a wool tie.
David was sporting the tie in question, a vintage 1940’s tie in rich earthy colours – it sat perfectly with his outfit, bold and yet very wearable. Both agreed that this would be a wonderful addition to the Cordings range, and the conversation led on from there.
THE MULTI COLOURED SHETLAND TIE
Justin researched British mills who could weave the cloth in a suitable weight for a tie and a Scottish mill specialising in dress tartan took on the challenge and replicated the pattern in a series of colours and sizes for David to choose from. The original tie was very wide and short, perfect for 1940’s high waisted trousers but less suitable for modern wear, so the blade of the tie was made neater, and the overall length increased to match the rest of our tie collection. Our Kent tie maker used a lighter interlining when making to give the tie the suppleness required.
THE BRUSHED SHETLAND V-NECK AND CREW NECK
Justin showed David a swatch of a Shetland cloth that the knitwear mill had brushed using a traditional method involving teasles, which gave it a wonderful finish, bringing out the rich colours in the cloth whilst retaining a light, lofty and supremely cosy handle. This slightly brushed finish, adopted from the UK in the middle of the last century for American Ivy League and ‘preppy’ styles, was perfect for the knitwear David had in mind – different yet with a strong traditional feel. Made in Scotland, the crewneck and the v-neck have deep pronounced ribs on the neck and cuff, and the v-neck has a higher v than our classic knitwear as a nod to the 40’s inspiration of the tie.
THE CORDUROY JACKET AND TROUSERS
Three years ago, Justin made a two-piece suit for David, who wanted a smart yet relaxed suit that was versatile and practical. David was keen (read insistent) that we should offer this to our customers as it has proven to be his go-to suit either in country or in town. David comments on the suit that, “men still want to look smart, even in the more casualised workplace and this suit just fits the bill, I have been wearing it for three years and it just gets better with age, it is sustainable by default It’s perfect worn as a suit or separates and is highly adaptable”
The original suit was made with a slightly more relaxed shoulder and lighter shoulder pads, but with the same British silhouette as our other jackets, and in recreating the suit Justin has kept the same softer shoulders. The cloth is our traditional Lancastrian corduroy which has a distinct softer finish giving it a supple vintage feel. It retains the three-button front, ticket pocket and single vent of our classic jackets. The trouser has a flat front, belt loops and zip fly Both the jacket and trouser can be worn as separates, David regularly teams the jacket with a pair of denim trousers, or the trousers with a tweed jacket, making the pieces eminently versatile.
THE COLDSTREAM COAT
The coat was inspired by a vintage coat that Justin had discovered, it was almost identical to coats shown in the Cordings archive – with a strong military feel and a multitude of style details added to make the coat able to withstand the elements.
Made in England, the double-breasted style fastens right to the neck, ensuring even the most persistent of winter winds can be kept away from the wearer and the deep vent at the back means ease of movement is not hampered. You can stride easily in this style, which David was particularly pleased about! The waist has a seam running through it, giving it a smart slightly fitted silhouette, and if you look carefully, you can see the lowest button sits within this seam – a traditional military detail.
The cloth used is woven in Austria in a luxurious Loden in a mix of alpaca wool and alpaca loden. It has been treated with a waterproof finish ensuring it is showerproof. The drape of the cloth is aided by the heavier than normal satin lining which adds to the luxury internal feel. Real buffalo horn buttons, thicker than usual are used, another attention to detail that makes this garment worthy of being passed down the generations.
David and Justin settled on a rich chocolate brown colour making it universal and wearable with both city greys and country tweed.
David comments, “British menswear style has had a strong influence on western men’s clothing for several centuries. Cordings of Piccadilly has a long and genuine history and I see the brand as one of the best exemplars of British style. Quality knitwear, traditional British-woven cloths such as tweeds and corduroy, highly practical and well-made garments made for city and country wear in the best and worst of British weathers have long been specialties of Cordings since it was founded in 1839.
The brand offers quality products with real heritage at very reasonable prices and well deserves its enthusiastic and loyal following, of which I’m part. It has been a real privilege to work with Cordings on this collaboration. We both have a great love for British menswear and its heritage, but agree that this long heritage doesn’t mean that British style cannot be carefully adapted to contemporary tastes.”